Our nursery is about 45 hectares. Not everything is on hand, and plants from open ground also need to be uprooted first.
Our employees make their rounds every day to prepare orders.

To keep our operation running smoothly, and for your convenience, we ask you to order in advance.
The plants will then be ready for you here, and you can load them straight away.

You are always welcome to walk around our nursery to view the plants.

.= ohne ballen
S = shrub with bare root (branching from soil level)
SCO = shrub in pot (branching from soil level)
ZWPLCO =  heavy plant in pot (older shrub)
WEP = ungrafted in pot
W = a half-standard tree which has a branch-free trunk of +- 1.25m + the crown (with bare root or root ball, depending on the variety)
WCO = a half-standard tree which has a branch-free trunk of +- 1.25m + the crown (in pot)
X = a standard tree which has a branch-free trunk of +-2.00m + the crown (with bare root or root ball, depending on the variety)
XCO = a standard tree which has a branch-free trunk of +-2.00m + the crown (in pot)
V = a feathered tree with a dominant straight trunk branching out at under 30cm from soil level
SS = a solitary shrub (large or regular-sized shrub)
MS = a multi-stem tree, that is, grown with several stems from ground level
D = roof shape
LEI = espalier

Download the pollination table of the apple and pear here.

Planting a tree is not difficult, but there are a number of points to consider. We list every step in our handy manual.

Click here to download our manual.

Planting espaliers is done in the same way as ‘regular’ trees. Keep a distance of about 2.5m between trees when planting a row of espaliers. At the same time, set up a lattice of horizontal lats next to the trees. The distance between the lats represents the distance between the future branches.

Bare root plants: best planted when in hibernation. This often means after they have dropped their leaves (period November to April).
Hessian root balls: on average, best planted from October to mid-April.
Wire root balls: on average, best planted from late September to May.
Evergreen leaf-bearing trees: best planted in Spring.
Coniferous plants: best time to plant these is 15 September. This will allow them to form some root before winter. Planting is however possible until the end of April.

All plants and trees grown in a container (pot) can be planted year round.

A healthy tree always shows a balance between a healthy root system and crown volume. At the nursery, the trees are periodically moved and pruned to establish such a balance.

When a tree is grubbed from open ground, some of the roots are always lost, which upsets the balance. It is therefore important to restore this balance by pruning. A pruned tree shows a better balance and will not dry out in a warm period.

PRUNED TREES ARE HEALTHIER TREES!

A newly planted tree will divide its energy between developing roots and developing leaves. When trees are properly pruned, more of their energy can go into developing roots because there are fewer leaves to establish. The leaves that are formed are larger and healthier because the roots are in better shape. Pruned trees are quicker to establish and do better.

Unfortunately, we see that trees are often not pruned after planting in spite of the importance of doing so.

1.        People often find it a shame to cut branches from the crown, it detracts from its appeal.


2.        People often don’t know how to go about it.


3.        People forget or it takes too much time.

Pruned trees recover quickly and pruning prevents failure!

After two seasons of growth, pruned trees almost catch up again with unpruned trees and after three years, they have a fuller and better developed crown than unpruned trees. They also had thicker trunks than unpruned trees.

Because of the many extreme weather circumstances of these past years, it is often quite hot early in spring. It is possible that in these circumstances, the leaves of unpruned trees will start releasing more moisture through evaporation than the roots can replace. Consequently, people often resort to extreme watering but this serves no purpose when the root system is insufficiently developed. The end result is nevertheless that the trees dry up and die. By pruning, the tree requires less water and stays alive.

In our nursery, we prune the trees periodically and this provides a good foundation.

When moving trees we shape the crown by pruning branches that point inwards. The same is true for crossing and rubbing branches.

The best way to balance the tree is by also pruning year-old twigs. These have the most leaves and therefore release most of the water through evaporation.
An additional advantage of this is that the crown shape is not affected and the recovery of young twigs is facilitated.

Trees are best pruned right before planting when branches are still easy to reach with the tree out of the ground.

Watering is very important in spring and summer bearing in mind that too much water can also cause damage. It is best to check regularly. Make sure the root ball remains damp but not wet. It may be best to throw up a ring of earth around the root ball to prevent run-off away from the root ball. The most efficient watering method is to use a drip line. This will help prevent wasting too much water when watering the root ball mornings and evenings.

Can't get the weeds in the garden under control? Don't hesitate to consult your garden contractor. He can quickly spot the weeds and assist you with advice. Controlling weeds requires skill and practical experience. He also has the right equipment and can burn or weed away. This is where professional garden contractors make a difference.

Please send us an email to info@vanpeltnv.com. We will help you.

Yes, you can pay with eco-checks, also at delivery. Only for private customers.